Photo and Text By Edward Fielding
I live on Mount Desert Island, Maine, home of Acadia National park - one of the most beautiful spots on earth no doubt, but in Acadia in the peak summer season one doesn't always get that peaceful sense of tranquility one imagines getting from such a setting. The problem is that Acadia National Park is the smallest park in the national park system and it gets three million visitors a year, all within a four month period - June, July, August and September.
When my family wants to "get away from it all" for a weekend, we head up north from Ellsworth where the last of civilization seems to be left behind. One of our favorite desinations is Campobello Island, home of the Roosevelt Campobello International Park, its Canadian soil but the park is run jointly by the US and Canada.
Roosevelt Campobello International Park is not a unit of the United States National Park Service or Parks Canada. It is administered by a joint U.S./Canadian Commission, funded equally by the two countries.
The Roosevelt Campobello International Park is a unique example of international cooperation. This 2800 acre park is a joint memorial by Canada and the United States and a symbol of the close relationship between the two countries. Here are the cottage (keep in mind that the term "cottage" was used from Newport to Bar Harbor to describe a rich persons idea of roughing it - to your or I it is a mansion although it was certainly more rustic than the mansions of Newport or Bar Harbor) and the grounds where President Roosevelt vacationed, the waters where he sailed, and the woods, bogs, and beaches where he tramped and relaxed. The Roosevelt Campobello International Park was established under an agreement signed by President Lyndon B. Johnson and Prime Minister Lester B. Pearson on January 22, 1964. The Roosevelt Campobello International Park was officially opened on August 20, 1964.
In preparation for a trip to the park I'd suggest a viewing of the movie Sunrise at Campobello (1960) which was filmed at the real "cottage". It's the story of Franklin Roosevelt's (Ralph Bellamy) bout with polio at age 40 in 1921 and how his family (and especially wife Eleanor - Greer Garson) cope with his illness. From being stricken while vacationing at Campobello to his triumphant nominating speech for Al Smith's presidency in 1924, the story follows the various influences on his life and his determination to recover - based on the award winning Broadway play of the same name.
Other Things To Do
For most a visit to Campobello would be a day trip from Acadia National Park but there is enough to do on the Island for a long weekend especially if you like hiking and camping.
Keep in mind that this part of the world doesn't see a lot of crowds and the fishing industry which made it famous in years past has dwindled so there are not a lot of typical tourist type "services". I.e. Don't expect a Dunkin' Donuts and a McDonalds - this is a refreshing area for the mind and sole to think that some parts of the world are actually true to their origins.
Witness the incredible tides at the local beaches, see the fishing weirs and salmon farming pens, go on a whale watch. At low tide take a very challenging hike to the East Quoddy Light (watch out for the missing rungs on the ladders!)
Play golf and lay on the beach at Herring Cove. Nature lovers can watch seals in the harbors, eagles soaring overhead. Have the best seafood chowder in the world at the Family Fisheries Take-out and Fish Market. Get your groceries at the Co-Op supermarket on the island. Take a guided bog walk with a park ranger. Explore the numerous hiking trails and deserted beaches. Visit Lubec and the chocolate "factory". Go kayaking!
Herring Cove Provincial Park
Campobello Island is also home to the wonderful Herry Cove Provincial Park with its campground and golf course. Located on the Eastern side of Campobello Island, Herring Cove Provincial Park, borders on a truly spectacular mile long, pebble and sandy beach.
The 425 hectare Park features a challenging nine hole golf course with clubhouse and licensed restaurant facilities.
The adjacent Campground and Day Use Area, features 76 Camp
Sites with 40 electrical hook-ups. Shady and sheltered or open sites. Spacious Pull-Throughs. Showers, kitchen shelters and playgrounds are located on the
property. Plus its not difficult to get a spot expect on major holiday weekends.
Light houses
Light house lovers will rejoice in the knowledge that the Campobello Island area is blessed with a wealth of lighthouses. There are two Lights on the island: East Quoddy Light at Head Harbour and Mulholland Light . The Channel Light is located between Lubec and Campobello Island. From almost any point along Campobello's shore, other lighthouses are visible -- on Grand Manan Island; West Quoddy Head Light in Lubec, Maine; and several across Passamaquoddy Bay from Deer Island to Black's Harbour on the New Brunswick mainland. The varied design and generally easy access to the lighthouses makes them a delight to view or visit.
Weather
I think part of the reason this area hasn't been overdeveloped is due to the weather in the area. Its maritime weather means its often cool, overcast, foggy or stormy. Be prepared.
Operating Hours & Seasons for the Cottage
Daily, Saturday following Victoria Day (the Saturday prior to U.S. Memorial Day), and remains open through Canadian Thanksgiving (U.S. Columbus Day). Visiting hours are from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. A.D.T. (9 a.m. to 5 p.m. E.D.T.) seven days a week. The last tour of the cottage is at 5:45 A.D.T. (4:45 E.D.T.).
Getting There
Plane
Nearest full service airports located in Bangor, Maine; St. John, New Brunswick; and Fredericton, New Brunswick.
Car
From Boston take I-95 north to Bangor, Maine. Continue east on Route 1A to Ellsworth and then east on Route 1 to Whiting Village. Take Route 189 to Lubec and cross the International Bridge to Campobello Island. The Park is located approximately two miles from the International Bridge.
Note: You will be going through a customs checkpoint so bring proper identification. Passage on the bridge is free and there is not fee for the parks. Quite a bargin!
Accomidations: We've camped at the campground which was nice and also rented one of the oceanside cabins at An Island Chalet which was great in June when it rained all weekend. A more upscale retreat would be the The Lupine Lodge.
Official web site of Campobello: http://www.campobello.com/
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