Monday, March 21, 2005

Recipe: Mussel Chowder from Thurston's Lobster Pound

From The New England Clam Shack Cookbook: Favorite Recipes from Clam Shacks, Lobster Pounds & Chowder Houses

By Brooke Dojny (Storey Books, 2003; $16.95/trade paperback; ISBN: 1-58017-473-6)

Mussel Chowder

My favorite is the mussel chowder, which the Radcliffes, owners of Thurston’s [Thurston’s Lobster Pound, Steamboat Wharf Road, Bernard, Maine], adapted from a recipe on Epicurious.com. It’s a light, delicate, creamy chowder, made pretty with finely diced carrots and orange bell peppers in addition to potatoes. One or two mussels in the shell go into each serving, where their glistening black shells create another dramatic color contrast. And it goes without saying that Thurston’s uses only clean, locally caught wild mussels.

Makes 16 first-course servings; 8 main-course servings

3 cups water

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed

6 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 cups finely diced peeled potatoes

1 teaspoon salt, plus additional to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus additional to taste

2 carrots, peeled and finely diced

2 small leeks, cleaned well, white and pale green parts thinly sliced

1 orange bell pepper, finely diced

1 large shallot, finely chopped

3 tablespoons minced garlic

3/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup heavy cream

In a large pot, bring the water to a boil. Add the mussels and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook, covered, until the shells open, 4 to 8 minutes, depending on their size.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a bowl, discarding any that do not open. Set aside 16 mussels in their shells and shuck the rest. Pour the mussel broth into a glass measuring cup and let the impurities settle to the bottom.

In a large pot, heat the butter and oil. Add the potatoes, salt, and pepper. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the carrots, leeks, bell pepper, and shallot. Cook, covered, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the clean mussel broth (leaving any impurities behind in the bottom of the measuring cup) and the wine, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the shucked mussels and the cream and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the reserved mussels in their shells. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper if necessary. (The chowder is best when made ahead and refrigerated overnight.)

Reheat gently. Ladle into cups or bowls, making sure each portion contains at least one of the mussels in the shell.

This recipe may be reproduced with the following credit: Recipe from THE NEW ENGLAND CLAM SHACK COOKBOOK: Favorite Recipes from Clam Shacks, Lobster Pounds & Chowder Houses by Brooke Dojny (Storey Books, 2003; $16.95/trade paperback; ISBN: 1-58017-473-6)

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